The Keffiyeh, between emblem and accessory
16 May 2016
The keffiyeh, the known scarf with a checkered pattern, has in a short time become a true fashion accessory. Although its origins are in the first place cultural, its design will rapidly become political. Deemed to be an imbroglio by some, a logical follow-up by others, let’s see how the keffiyeh has conquered the hearts of people of all ages and backgrounds.
The Origins of the Keffiyeh
The keffiyeh is a piece of cotton cloth that constitutes the main headdress of people in the Arab countries. It is maintained by dual hoops called iqal or tied around the head. The keffiyeh is originally from of Kufa, a city in Iraq after which it is named. It is worn by the Bedouin of the region and it protects against hot weather and sand storms. The keffiyeh also makes it possible to distinguish between peasants and other inhabitants.
From Clothing Accessory to Political Symbol
When people bring up the subject of the keffiyeh, a link is immediately drawn to Palestine. And this, indeed, is for a very valid reason. During decades, the keffiyeh has been the symbol of resistance by the Palestinian farmers against the English during the Arab revolt that took place from 1936 to 1939.
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Initially worn by the Bedouin, the keffiyeh was eventually adopted by the entire population. It was a peaceful way to unite the nation under one and the same piece of cloth. It will even be taken up by the late Yasser Arafat, hence symbolizing the Palestinian cause like never before.
The Keffiyeh in the Arab World
Today, the keffiyeh is worn in all Arab regions. This wide use may be explained by the closeness between the different people, by population migration and trade between the Arab countries.
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The different ways of wearing the shemagh in the Arab countries
The Shemagh
There are different ways of wearing the shemagh in everyday life. Arab people like to tie the shemagh around the head or wear it loosely by maintaining it under an iqal. The way of wearing the shemagh differs from one country to another. These are the best known:
The “Bint Al Bakkar”-Style shemagh
The"Bint Al Bakkar” style whose origins remain unclear is the most fashionable shemagh style at the present time. Although difficult to master, it offers elegance and refinement to those able to handle the shemagh with mastery.
The VIP Version, a Shemagh for Special Occasions
Worn by senior dignitaries and ministers, the VIP version of the shemagh consists in letting the ends of the cloth dangle down and giving a slight twist at the front.
The “Way of the Eagle” Shemagh
This version consists in throwing both ends of shemagh over the opposite shoulder. This style is adopted during desert getaways and protects from cold weather.
The “School-Teacher-Look” Shemagh
Here we have a very simple style that appeals to teachers because it offers them freedom of movement. In this version of the shemagh, one simply drops the ends of the scarf behind his back.
The “Cobra-Style” Shemagh
Born in the 90s, this style is probably the best-known version of the shemagh. With its reptile shape, after which it is named, the “cobra-style” shemagh brings a lot of style. Nevertheless, it is very burdensome since you’ll constantly have to readjust the scarf and avoid making sudden movements as not to spoil the “cobra”-effect. Therefore, neck pains will often occur.
The “Modest”-Style Shemagh
This is a simple way to wear the shemagh. While placing it on a taqiyah and maintaining it by an iqal, one end of the scarf is thrown over the opposite shoulder.
The “Abu Rashed”-Style Shemagh
The name of Abu Rashed has been attributed to this style in reference to the lawyer Khaled Abu Rashed, known for defending a reckless driver who killed three passengers in 2005 during a “controlled skids” performance. The “Abu Rashid style” shemagh consists in placing one of the scarf’s ends on the head. It was a style the lawyer mastered brilliantly.
The “Butterfly”-Style Shemagh
Unlike the "cobra-style", the butterfly style allows easiness of movement. Simple, it adds a classy touch and elegance, leaving the face fully uncovered.
The Keffiyeh in the Army
For the American and British troops, the keffiyeh has become what the Moroccan turban used to be for the French troops in North Africa. Being an essential accessory during sandstorms that protects from the sun, the cotton scarf has joined the armed forces of the NATO. Moreover, when worn by soldiers, it is mainly referred to by the term shemagh. It is most often found in tones of violet/black, green/black and even yellow/black.
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Whether it be in balaclava style, draped, or worn as a scarf, it became the essential accessory of the soldiers so much so that it is now automatically introduced in their combat gear. The shemagh is indeed crucial if one has to deal with dust in these desert and sandy regions.
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The keffiyeh has become a true fashion accessory so much so that its history is sometimes forgotten. Teenagers, bourgeois bohemians, anarchists, pacifists or simply fans of the checkered scarf all agree; this piece of cotton fabric will stay popular for a long time.